(December 2004) Knowing: Reflections on the journey to Rundu
So how did it happen that I find myself in a
place where drivers must hit the brakes and wait for donkeys and cattle
to cross the road? This beautiful, dry place where the human will is no
match for the sun. This healing place with its many languages and
dreams; nourishing place with its maguni and mutete; this wounded
place: Namibia, where my young students tell stories about the time
before independence, stories of sitting in classes where teachers had
rifles in the corner and a wrong answer could mean being hit with one;
where after independence, the diamond industry is still run by Germans
and most of the stores are owned by the Portuguese and some of us have
running water but many still walk the hot dusty roads to fetch buckets
of it and gracefully carry ten pounds of it on their heads. How did I
end up in Namibia?
What conscious, right-minded
African-American doesn’t want to at least set foot on the African
continent--even if it’s for a week in a city so modern you feel
like you never left home? So I applied to IFESH, an NGO established
back in the day by the late Reverend Leon Sullivan to promote self-help
and an exchange of knowledge between Africans and African-Americans.
Last year when I applied, I was placed on the alternate list to go to
Ghana. This year I reapplied and got the invitation letter to teach in
Namibia. When I got the letter, I tell you, I thanked God and rushed to
the map on my bedroom wall. Namibia.
I have been assigned to teach English
Communication Skills at a small teacher training college in a rural
town on the border of Angola called Rundu. But before I could set eyes
on Rundu, I had to travel for 36 hours-three flights, a two hour stop
in Amsterdam and nine hours of being stared at in Munich Germany-then I
spent four busy days in Namibia's capital, Windhoek, for IFESH
orientation. Windhoek is a place where you can drink the tap water, go
to a club, catch a movie, mall hop and skip the malaria pills. But just
when I was getting used to having all the comforts of home, we piled in
a car and began the seven-hour journey to Rundu.
Suddenly the landscape began to change. The
mountains started disappearing, the temperature began to climb, the
desert began to show its face again. By the time our journey was over,
I had seen thatched houses, herds of animals, land that went on for
days, women wearing faded fabric and carrying water and firewood on
their heads, and the roads-lemme tell ya-the roads were no longer
paved, they were dusty, full of gravel and very bumpy. When we got to
the lodge where we were staying for the night, it was dark. There was
no one on the road, there were no streetlights, almost everything was
closed. We were not in Kansas anymore.
This was a journey I had wanted to make for
a long time. Africa. But honestly, it was not easy getting ready for
the trip. When people talk about their journeys to Africa, they
don’t really talk about how many vaccinations you’ll need
or how expensive it is to get malaria pills or the fact that
anti-malaria pills are toxic and drive some people up the wall, folk
don’t talk about what it feels like to contemplate life without
running water or electricity or what it is to pack for an 11 month trip
when you have no idea what you will be encountering. I started to
wonder why I was doing this. What kind of lunatic was I to leave my
family, friends, and work in New York to go thousands of miles away to
a dusty place that I had never seen to work in a system I was totally
unfamiliar with? What kind of person does that? Was I crazy? No, the
preparation was not easy and I had doubts that surprised me, but
eventually my faith over rode my insecurities. Once I got to Rundu
however, some of those old doubts resurfaced. I had a very deep sleep
that first night in Rundu. Maybe sleep was a way of brushing those
fears aside by going to a quiet state, maybe it was just fatigue from
all the movement and the orientation and all the new things I was
seeing and hearing and feeling and tasting for the first time. Whatever
it was, I slept. The next morning, the sun had put a new spin on
everything; I was greeted by a new day and renewed faith. I was sure
that although things might be very different from what I was used to,
they were going to be okay. The ancestors had not brought me this far
to drop me.
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